Scran Spot Review #3 - La Nonna, Brixton
CUISINE
Set in the heart of Brixton’s Market Row, La Nonna is described as an ‘independent Italian restaurant bringing artisan-crafted fresh pasta plates… celebrating the best of specialty and seasonal produce from Italy and the UK.’
The restaurant offers traditional à la carte menu, with a wonderful wine menu on offer to pair perfectly with their fresh pasta.
They will also be launching ‘Nonna’s Deli’ very soon, which will bring their packed fresh pasta and sauces to a home environment.
Launch: 2018 (Initially in Flat Iron Square, before moving to Brixton)
Founders: Daniele & Eduardo Pino
MY SCRAN CHOICE
The endearing waitstaff brought over the menu and talked me into trying their ‘Special’, the Croquettes, which provided a lovely prelude to the classic Cacio e Pepe dish.
STARTER
‘The Special Croquettes’
Potato, Cheese and Ham Croquettes with a Wild Garlic Ricotta Dip
I am torn between deciding whether I prefer Italian or Spanish croquettes, but La Nonna certainly went a long way to help Italy’s case. The trio of soft, delicate croquettes on a bed of whipped wild ricotta was simply special - Let’s hope La Nonna transfers it from a special into a permanent menu option!
MAIN COURSE
‘Pici Cacio e Pepe’
Pecorini Romano DOP and Fresh Black Pepper Emulsion
Executing a classy cacio e pepe is a very difficult skill to master, but La Nonna’s hand-crafted pasta made the dish for me. The thick, straw-like pici offered a nice basis for the intense black pepper flavour to come through. It was very filling but left me satisfied!
ALTERNATIVE MAIN COURSE
‘Arabbiata Radiatori’
Confit Datterini Tomatoes, House Fermented Chilli, Smoked Stracciatella
From what I gathered, this is one of the best dishes on the menu. The stracciatella is smoked to perfection and adds a wonderful gooey texture to the spicy sauce. Daniele’s unfussy, fresh pasta draws inspiration from his Italian grandmother’s traditional recipes, and this dish really exemplifies a unique twist to a classic Roman delight.
THE REFRESHMENTS
APEROL SPRITZ
The sun was shining on match-day, so it only felt right to try out La Nonna’s take on the Italian classic cocktail, the Aperol Spritz. It was extremely refreshing and with the sun’s rays shining onto the appetising glass, it took very little time to dispatch.
THE FEE
After scouting out this relaxed, authentic restaurant, I did not expect the end product to match the excellent pricing. However, this is one of the most affordable restaurants around when it comes to delicious Italian food.
THE REVIEW
This was my second trip to this relaxed, must-visit South London Italian. It never disappoints and it has most definitely cemented itself in the Champions League places for restaurants in the competitive area of Brixton.
Room for improvement?
The all-round experience was great, but I would be very keen to see the restaurant host larger accommodation for outside seating. The inside seating felt more intimate, and next time round, I would love to have a pitch-side seat closer to the open kitchen, where the action really happens.
Next time?
The restaurant is fast becoming one of my favourite outings. For such reasonable prices and sheer convenience, it is truly a no-brainer to make spontaneous trips to La Nonna from time-to-time. I have always been tempted by the Arrabbiata Radiatori and so next time round, I will certainly elect to try it out.
It is also possible to hire out the restaurant for a large group booking, which could be very fun too.
THE EYE TEST
THE TASTE TEST
THE SERVICE
ATMOSPHERE
PLAYER OF THE MATCH
- THE SPECIAL CROQUETTES -
FINAL MATCH RATING
LOCATION
Postcode: 7 Market Row, Coldharbour Lane, SW9 8LB
Nearest Stations: Brixton (0.2 Miles)
Website: https://lanonnaldn.com/