Scran Spot Review #1 - RAI, Fitzrovia
CUISINE
Described as a ‘creative and modern fusion concept’, RAI’s culinary focus centres on Japanese food in combination with traditional British ingredients, such as Dorset cheddar, English truffle and British chocolate, as well as scouting out other rare ingredients worldwide. The restaurant offers multi-course omakase-style tasting menus as well as an a la carte option.
Launch: 2022
Founder: Shrabaneswor Rai
Executive Head Chef: Padam Raj Rai
MY SCRAN CHOICE
Having seen an enticing deal on the Instagram page, @secret.london, I tucked into RAI’s ‘Lunch Tasting Menu’, which was usually on offer for £100, but on this occasion, was available for £49, excluding a discretionary 15% service charge. 8 stunning courses were provided in total, each aesthetically excellent, with a refreshing take on British-Japanese food.
COURSE 1
‘Welcome Snacks'
To kick off proceedings, the salmon & tuna tataki on a field of lotus roots provided a truly crisp start to the game. The salmon was the standout performer.
Next time, I will be sure to try out the higher-valued player, with a transfer fee of £24: The ‘Scottish Salmon Tartare’ with Yuzu Miso, Leek, 60 Months Aged Organic Parmigiano.’
COURSE 2
‘Homemade Tofu’
Ponzu Miso Caviar, 2 Years Aged Soy Sauce
The Ponzu Miso Caviar was a game-changer!
The soy sauce was 2 year aged, from the Okada family, who have been making soy sauce since 1753. These veterans in the game provided a soy sauce with a delightful umami flavour.
COURSE 3
‘Sashimi Omakase’
5 Years Aged Soy Sauce, Freshly Grated Japanese Wasabi
When it comes to the RAI experience, this dish encapsulated the essence of the restaurant as it showcased their in-depth knowledge of Japanese cuisine whilst sourcing the highest quality ingredients.
The flavours of the fish were assisted by fresh wasabi, a rarity in Japan, let alone London, due to its purity as well as the absence of horseradish. This gave it less of a spicy kick, which allowed the true wasabi flavour to shine through. The knowledgeable waiter provided great commentary - he described how the wasabi, having grown over the course of 3 years in a glacial river that ran off Mount Fuji, was then left for 12 months to fully mature. The waiter then grated the fresh wasabi at our table, which provided a moment of flair.
The 5 year aged soy sauce had a richer and sweeter flavour than standard soy sauces - it was excellent.
A grand driftwood sculpture then revealed a hat-trick of sashimi omakaze delights: Bluefin tuna, Scottish Salmon and Otoro tuna. The salmon was a personal favourite.
COURSE 4
‘Grilled Fish Course’
A wonderfully cooked duo of grilled, miso-marinated mackerel. Whilst personally I find that grilled fish usually flatters to deceive, this really did melt in the mouth.
Along with this dish was a selection of 4 traditional Japanese accompaniments: 3 types of pickle and grated radish. The server recommended that we used these pickles as a pallet cleanser between bites, allowing tastebuds a well-needed rest at half-time.
COURSE 5
‘Fatty Tuna Maki’
Sanpuku Nori, Koshiihikari Rice, Ponzu Caviar
This dish brought with it the long-awaited return of RAI’s top player, the Ponzu Miso Caviar, but this time with a different team behind it. The textures and flavours aligned perfectly and it was very moreish.
COURSE 6
‘New Style Seared Butterfish’
A true rebuild of the oft, overplayed new style sashimi seen across London. The added Jalapeño element alongside the pairing of Bluefin Tuna gave this dish some added flair.
Beware: the chilli gives it a real kick!
COURSE 7
‘Pumpkin Ice-Cream, Umeshu, Coconut, Yuzu Foam’
When I initially read pumpkin ice-cream would play a talismanic role in this dessert, I was sceptical. However, much to my surprise, this mild and light playmaker set up an ample of opportunities for the tart yuzu foam and the coconut to really shine through.
COURSE 8
‘Petit Fours’
As Full Time approached, this grand reveal was certainly a crowd pleaser! Amongst two oyster shells laid two pearls of British chocolate delights: A rich, dark chocolate whiskey truffle and a lighter white chocolate coconut pairing. The white chocolate really stole the show.
THE FEE
As a result of the 50% promotional discount, the meal was reasonably priced. However, usually it would have been an expensive away day!
THE REVIEW
An incredible experience, with some of the most aesthetically pleasing food I have seen. The unique serveware and the carefully thought out, yet understated flavours made this a gastronomical delight. The waitstaff were very knowledgeable and the breadth of dishes on offer makes RAI a ‘Theatre of Dreams’.
Room for improvement?
The only improvement I feel would have been the atmosphere. In its floodlit lighting, my tastebuds’ away journey to Japan was not mirrored by the restaurant’s interiors. The flair of the food, I felt did not match the very minimalistic interiors of the restaurant. Instead of being immersed within the music of Japan, the predominant sounds within the restaurant were the waitstaff’s fast-paced movements across the vinyl wood pitch.
Next time?
I would certainly like to re-visit, as the Wagyu courses really did stand out and would be nice to try! Sitting on the counter in front of the talented chefs would have also made the experience more immersive and enjoyable.
THE EYE TEST
THE TASTE TEST
THE SERVICE
ATMOSPHERE
PLAYER OF THE MATCH
- FATTY TUNA MAKI -
FINAL MATCH RATING
LOCATION
Postcode: 3 Windmill Street, London, W1T 2HY
Nearest Stations: Goodge Street (0.1 Miles), Tottenham Court Road (0.3 Miles), Oxford Circus (0.5 Miles)
Website: https://rairestaurant.com/?doing_wp_cron=1652122643.9630389213562011718750