The Amalfi Coast, Italy
Scran Spot Recommendations in the Amalfi Coast
I recently visited the stunning Amalfi Coast, where the food scene truly captures the authentic essence of Italian food. The myriad of exquisite dishes on offer had a running theme across the plethora of restaurants you can choose from: seafood, citrus flavours and world class pasta.
I tried and tested out a broad range of restaurants, from takeaway spots and casual dining to tasting menus. This post will conclude with suggesting a couple of bars for an enticing aperitif prior to indulging in Italian food.
Below are a number of options for your travels to the Amalfi Coast, centring on the more modest towns of Maiori, Minori, Amalfi and Conca dei Marini.
Maiori
#1 - Torre Normanni
My experience here was a special one. The eye-catching castle is the centrepiece of the town and the opportunity to have a feast overlooking the Amalfi coast is one not to miss out on! You will be seated in an exclusive semi-arch, in a romantic, intimate setting. The service is efficient, the food excellent and it should be the focus of your culinary choices when visiting the quaint town of Maiori. I would certainly recommend dining here at sunset.
Must-Try: RAVIOLI
My Scran Selection
STARTERS:
PUFF PASTRY filled with codfish and burrata cheese drizzled with a fondue of Provolone del Monaco cheese
A SAMPLING OF 3 DIFFERENT DELICIOUS WHIMS inspired by the fresh fish of the day
FRIED EGGPLANT & SMOKED CACIOCAVALLO CHEESE with a tomato and basil pesto sauce
MAINS:
RAVIOLI stuffed with "Sfusato Amalfitano" lemon infused buffalo ricotta cheese in a butter and mint sauce
SCIALATIELLI PASTA in a fresh tomato, garlic, olive oil and parsley sauce with mussels, assorted clams, shrimp and scampi
DESSERT:
GRAN DESSERT TORRE NORMANNA
DRINKS:
The House White Wine
Limoncello
The Ratings
#2 - Ristoranta Pineta
A wonderful, relaxed setting for a dinner. When you walk to the garden at the back of the restaurant, you will find yourself sat below a stunning lemon grove. The menu is well detailed, offering a wide variety of Italian options, and the staff are both friendly and attentive. This is a must-visit if you desire a walk-in one night to enjoy a hearty portion of traditional Amalfian food with a relaxed atmosphere making you feel right at home. Having tried a assortment of antipasto’s across my trip to the Amalfi coast, this one stood out, as the cheese was excellent and the portion size not too overwhelming prior to a sizey main course.
Must-Try: 4 DOP ANTIPASTO
My Scran Selection
STARTERS:
4 DOP ANTIPASTO 4 great ingredients all DOP (Protected Designation of Origin). All the ingredients are from Campania region with an excellent intruder. Buffalo Mozzarella cheese Campana PDO, Parma Ham PDO aged 24 months, San Marzano PDO Bruschetta and Extra Virgin Olive Oil PDO
MAIN:
SCOGLIO 1903 Home Scialatielli according to an Ancient recipe with Clams, Mussels, Squid, Shrimp and Scampi Scented with Lemon Zest and Cherry Tomatoes
NERRANO 1955 Original recipe of pasta alla nerano in the mid-50s in the homonymouse town, Spaghetti di Gragnano with fried zucchini, basil and Provolone del Monaco cheese PDO Sorrentine Peninsula
DRINKS:
A Bottle of Falanghina Roccamonfina IGP
The Ratings
#3 - Agricola Ruocco’s
You will find Agricola Ruocco’s halfway between Maiori and Minori, and it is accessed via ‘The Path of Lemons.’ This is a must-do activity and involves a scenic walk from one idyllic town to another. You will experience incredible sea views from high up on the Amalfi Coast, whilst enjoying a hike through the famous lemon groves. After taking on the challenging hike of over 400 steps, Agricola Ruocco’s will greet you with open arms at the summit, and you will be drooling at the idea of an ice cold lemonade and lemon salad. They kindly ask for a donation and I recommend giving one due to their friendly welcoming and this mini-experience felt so authentic. On your visit to Maiori, definitely take on this hike, as you will not only be rewarded with the chance to explore the neighbouring town of Minori, but you will also burn off the vast amount of calories from the abundance of pasta dishes eaten across your holiday!
Instagram: @AgricolaRuoccos
My Scran Selection
FOOD:
A LEMON SALAD, consisting of fresh lemons, fresh mint and garlic oil.
DRINKS:
HOMEMADE LEMONADE
Minori
#1 - Sal De Riso
Read my Full Review Here.
A truly indulgent pit-stop in Minori that will leave you suitably satiated! It was very exciting to simply admire the artwork of the pastries in the glass displays, and I was spoilt for choice. Overall, a must-visit, and I would suggest venturing from Maiori to Minori and treating yourself to a mini-delight at the end of the Lemon Walk.
Must-Try: Ivoire 35%
My Scran Selection
FOOD:
RICOTTA, PEAR & CHOCOLATE TART
AMALFI LEMON COOKIES
ECLAR AL CIOCCOLATO
DRINKS:
IVOIRE 35% - A White Hot Chocolate with Tones of Vanilla and Malt
ICED COFFEE with Vanilla Syrup
The Ratings
Ravello
#1 - L’Antica Cartiera
Ravello is a stunning town just a little higher up than Minori, and this restaurant was special. It was a very romantic setting, as L’Antica is perched on the rocks, overlooking the beautiful Amalfian sea. The waitstaff were very pleasant and professional, and the food matched classic Italian food with creative, innovative thinking. The Lemon Fettuccine Pasta was one of my favourite dishes across all of the Scran Spots in my time in the Amalfi Coast.
Must-Try: Lemon Fettuccine Pasta
My Scran Selection
MAINS:
LINGUINE with Fresh Lemon, Mussels and Potatoes
LEMON FETTUCCINE PASTA with Buffalo Soft Cheese, Black Truffle and Lobster Tartare
DESSERT:
PASSION AND CHOCOLATE Dark Chocolate Semi Sphere with White Mousse Chocolate Brownie
DRINKS:
APEROL SPRITZ
BIANCOLELLA D’ISCHIA DOC - CASA D’AMBRA Amber House - 85% Biancolella, 15% Forastera San Lunardo and Uva Rilla - Campania Region
The Ratings
Amalfi
#1 - Sensi
This is the best of the lot - each dish a culinary masterpiece, and backed up by Sensi’s recognition as a Michelin Starred Restaurant. Although this is a little pricey, I would suggest going here for a special occasion. They offer a range of tasting menus, going up to ten courses, but I opted for four courses and this felt sufficient. With the pre-starters and pre-dessert, you will feel spoilt.
The seared tuna was a memorable dish, and the attention to detail in the other courses was beyond impressive. You were able to choose your preference for olive oil from the menu and the presentation on each dish was so delicately done.
A unique experience all round.
Must-Try: IL TONNO
My Scran Selection
PRE-STARTERS:
Green Cracker Pomodoro Purée & Basil Caviar
Ricotta Tartlet with Pickled Beetroot & Micro-Basil
Cannelloni with Squid, Guacamole & Yuzu Reduction
Lemon Brioche with Zucchini Purée, Anchovy & Limoncello Jam
Meringue Topped with Yellowtail Carpaccio, Squid Ink & Orange Jam
BREAD & OLIVE OIL
An Assortment of Bread
MADONNA DELL’OLIVO ITRAN’S SERRE (Sa)
COURSE 1:
IL TONNO - Tuna, Fennel, Dill, Seaweed, ‘Asetra’ Caviar, Anise & Mustard Ice Cream
COURSE 2:
IL RISOTTO - Risotto with Smoked Mantis Squilla, Turmeric, Mediterranean Herbs, Anchovies ‘Colatura’ & Lemon
COURSE 3:
IL MANZO - Beef, Puffed Cereals with Yuzu Shichimi, Tacos with Fermented Vegetables & Horseradish Mayo
PRE-DESSERT:
RASPBERRY SORBET
DESSERT:
LA NOCCIOLA - Hazelnut Mousse, Coffee, Sesame Seeds, Shochu
LA GIANDUIA - Gianduja Smoked Chocolate, Honey, Rosemary, Pollen & Gin
DRINKS:
PUNTACROCE Biano 2014 DOC Costa D’Amalfi
The Ratings
#2 - Taverna Buonvicino
Just off the main square in Amalfi town, this lovely courtyard offers a relief away from the sea-views you will find in many of Amalfi’s best restaurants. This was a very enjoyable dinner, as the food was simple, well-done and feels like a Scran Spot that would be very consistent every time you go. I will definitely re-visit if I venture back to Amalfi Town in the future.
My Scran Selection
STARTERS:
BREADED LEMON FLAVOURED MOZZARELLA CHEESE
MAINS:
LINGUINE with ‘Colatura di Cetara’ and Giffoni’s Hazelnuts Lemon Flavoured
PASTA with Asparagus & Cherry Tomatoes
DRINKS:
TRAMONTI COSTA D’AMALFI DOC
The Ratings
#3 - Bistro Flli Pansa
This is a great drinks spot before or after dinner. You will find yourself in the vibrant main square of Amalfi with a breathtaking view of the Duomo. I found myself going back every day before dinner, because the view really did not grow old!
My Drinks Selection
DRINKS:
Aperol Spritz
#4 - La Rua
A great, affordable takeaway option if you want a quick pizza. I opted for my favourite, a Quattro Formaggi, which I then took to eat on the steps of the Duomo. I would highly recommend doing the same, as an alternative to a sit-down meal.
My Scran Selection
FOOD:
QUATTRO FORMAGGI PIZZA
Conca dei Marini
#1 - La Bonta del Capo
READ THE FULL REVIEW HERE ALONGSIDE A LEGAL PERSPECTIVE ON LIMONCELLO.
This incredible experience garnered Food & Footy’s first 5* review, as a result of the warmth the staff instantly provided us from minute one to the last. We enjoyed an unforgettable ‘Limoncello Tour’, which you can learn more about on my review… The food matched the staff’s efforts and learning about Italian culture whilst tucking into a refreshing drink overlooking the sea made sure I will not be forgetting about Bontà anytime soon! I would highly recommend a visit if you desire a jam-packed schedule of indulgence.
MUST-TRY: The Limoncello Tour!
My Scran Selection
COURSE 1:
Provola Cheese on Leaves with Lemon Scented Prawns
COURSE 2:
A Duet of Ravioli with Ricotta & Lemons and Seabass
COURSE 3:
Baked fish with Lemon Potatoes
COURSE 4:
A Trio of Lemon Desserts - Lemon Delight, Lemon Sorbet & lemon Ice-Cream
DRINKS:
LEMON SPRITZ
LIMONCELLO SHOT
The Ratings
#2 - L’Ippocampo Dei Fratelli Laudano
After taking a boat trip along the Amalfi Coast, the skipper suggested we should take a pit stop at L’Ippocampo to enjoy a traditional Italian pizza, and he recommended the Antipasto, in light of the quality of the local seafood. This is a great spot if you want a quick, tasty meal in a more low-key area of the Amalfi Coast. I would suggest a light lunch and a few cocktails before sun-bathing on the nearby beach.
Must-Try: ANTIPASTO
My Scran Selection
STARTERS:
ANTIPASTO based on an assortment of fresh seafood
MAIN:
PIZZA with mozzarella, fresh tomatoes and rocket
DRINKS:
Lemon Spritz
Aperol Spritz
The Ratings
#3 - Ristorante Zeffiro Serano
I would suggest avoiding Ristorante Zeffiro, because although the initial experience seems idyllic, with a boat picking you up to take you to the restaurant, and the lovely beach in at the forefront of the restaurant, the cleanliness is very poor. My companion fell ill for two weeks after food poisoning and I witnessed someone else fall sick at the restaurant too.
I would recommend instead going to the nearby L’Ippocampo, and if not, AVOID SEAFOOD here.
STARTERS:
FRIED SQUID
ARANCINI
MAIN:
SEAFOOD PASTA
The Ratings
AVOID
Sal De Riso, Minori
CUISINE
World-renowned pastry chef, Salvatore de Riso, originates from the small town of Minori in the Amalfi Coast and this stunning patisserie set across from the seaside promenade is his flagship restaurant. There is an emphasis on producing exquisite, attractive-looking food with the ‘flavour of the Amalfi Coast and its genuine aromas’ at the heart of Sal’s creations. It offers a wide array of creative coffees, juices and hot chocolates and the selection of pastries is beyond impressive. The glass display cases overwhelm you with options, but each and every pastry looks a safe pick. Sal De Riso also has an ice-cream selection and you can also sit down and enjoy some savoury dishes too.
“This is my world, the palette of Mediterranean flavor that, like a compass, regulates my daily life, respecting my land and what it generously gives”
MY SCRAN CHOICE
As you can see by the photos below, it was a tough choice! However, having completed the extensive ‘lemon walk’ from Maiori to Minori and the time being 4pm, a quick dessert and drink felt like an appropriate reward.
PASTRIES
‘Ricotta, Pear & Chocolate Tart’
Having researched the infamous chef prior to making a visit, we were aware of Sal’s knack at perfecting ricotta and pear based pastries. It was wonderfully presented and melted in the mouth.
- Amalfi Lemon Cookies -
They provided us with a complementary plate of Amalfi lemon cookies, which were soft and tasty, and it was a nice touch from Sal De Riso.
- Eclar al Cioccolato -
I have always had a soft spot for chocolate eclairs and this did not disappoint! The rich flavours of the ‘Venezuela Domori 72%’ chocolate shone through and the way in which they displayed the pastry on the plate left me salivating. One of the best eclairs I have had!
REFRESHMENTS
- Iced Coffee with Vanilla Syrup -
A refreshing alternative on a hot summer’s day in Minori. A classic option, but delivered well.
- Ivoire 35% -
‘The Art of Tasting: Hot Chocolate’ menu caught the eye, particularly due to the variety of interesting takes on traditional hot chocolates. I went for the Ivoire 35% which was dominated by white chocolate flavours and tones of vanilla and malt. It was divine.
FROM THE SHOP
I also elected to purchase one of Sal’s sweet spreadable delights. Having enjoyed the Ivoire 35% so much, it felt right to purchase its spreadable counterpart.
THE FEE
…
THE REVIEW
A truly indulgent pit-stop in Minori that will leave you suitably satiated! It was very exciting to simply admire the artwork of the pastries in the glass displays, and I was spoilt for choice! Overall, a must-visit.
Room for Improvement?
The creativity of the pastry options led to my expectation of the ice-cream following suit, but they were purely traditional flavours. This may be overly-critical as I am sure they would be tasty, but this naturally led me to trying the pastries instead. The service was also a little slow, and lacking in sufficient information.
THE EYE TEST
THE TASTE TEST
SERVICE
ATMOSPHERE
PLAYER OF THE MATCH
- IVOIRE 35% -
FINAL MATCH RATING
LOCATION
Address: Sal De Riso, Via Roma, 80, 84010 Minori SA, Italy
Website: https://www.salderiso.it/
Le Bontà del Capo, Conca del Marini
THE EXPERIENCE
The Lemon Garden
We met Chef Fiore at 12:30pm inside Le Bontà del Capo. Having navigated the treacherous Amalfi stairs, we arrived in desperate need of hydration, and they welcomed us with a large bottle of Acqua Panna, which set us up nicely for the experience. Fiore exuded charisma and made us feel instantly at home. We took a short trip to Villa il Limoneto, where the Lemon Garden overlooked the scenic Amalfi sea.
Fiore outlined the history of this iconic yellow fruit, regarded as the ‘Gold of Amalfi’, whilst allowing us to harvest four lemons from the trees, which were then used as part of the four-course tasting menu and limoncello demonstration. I found the sheer size of Amalfi lemons fascinating and with the sun beaming down on us, the thought of a lemon-centric menu was certainly appealing.
The Limoncello Demonstration
We then assisted Fiore in a practical demonstration in the preparation of Italy’s internationally renowned lemon liqueur, Limoncello. The process is outlined in the photos below and it was really enjoyable. I found it interesting how simple the process was, but the sheer quality of the local lemons was the secret ingredient to making a flavoursome Limoncello. The end product was a traditional Italian aperitif, the ‘Lemon Spritz’.
‘LIMONCELLO’ - A BRIEF HISTORY & A LEGAL PERSPECTIVE
The Origins of Limoncello
The existence of a definitive history of limoncello’s origins is somewhat contentious, as a series of anecdotes and myths intertwining has led to debate over which region of Southern Italy really has the accolade of originating this iconic liqueur. Sorrento, Amalfi and Capri all hold claims to being limoncello’s first hometown.
Federvini, The Italian Association of Wine/Liqueur Producers, on its website surmises that limoncello originates from a humble inn based in the island Azzurra, where Maria Antonia Farace homed a lemon and orange garden. Her grandson then set up a bar where limoncello was its main speciality and in 1988, a further descendant of the family, Massimo Canale, set up a handmade production of limoncello, registering ‘Limoncello’ as a trademark.
An extensive list of theories exist, with anecdotes from Sorrento and Amafli dating back to the Middle Ages. Coastal stories recount the liqueur being treated as a drink for a guest; drank in the morning by fishermen and farmers to ensure warmth during the Saracene invasions and; drank by monks between prayers at monasteries.
It is the second most popular liqueur in Italy, with Campari coming out victorious and has evolved away from being simply lemon-flavoured, as now variations exist with oranges, pistachios, cantaloupes and strawberries amongst many more.
A Legal Perspective
Limoncello is traditionally produced in South-Western Italy and originated initially from Femminello St Teresa lemons, more widely known ‘The Lemons of Sorrento’. They are qualitatively unique due to their distinctive characteristics of preservability and local aroma. The cultivation techniques in the Sorrento Peninsula are specifically rare enough that they have obtained the communitarian acknowledgement of ‘Typical Geographic Mark’, which protects and exploits the exclusive 'I.G.P. Lemon of Sorrento.’ All producers of the collective mark must comply with the production protocol due to the Lemons of Sorrento obtaining protection of geographical indication as of February 1st 2001, by the European board, pursuant to Article 6, Paragraph 2 of the ECC Regulation No. 2081/92. A limoncello will be assigned a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) only if produced by cold maceration in ethyl alcohol of the Sorrento’s Lemons peel PGI, recognised as ‘the Ovale di Sorrento ecotype’.
Under EU law, the liqueur is required to have a minimum ABV percentage of 15%, but rarely exceeds 30%.
There have been some intellectual property disputes surrounding limoncello. An interesting case in this regard was Shaker di L Laudato & C SAS v Office for Harmonisation in the Internal Market (Trade Marks and Designs) (OHIM) (T-7/04).
Shaker v OHIM
In 2008, this intriguing case relating to Article 8(1)(b) of Regulation NO 40/94, was concluded. Shaker v OHIM offers a pervasive example as to why the global assessment of the various relevant factors in assessing ‘the likelihood of confusion’ for trademarks should be considered holistically and in great depth.
In summary, the case concerned Shaker appealing against a Board of Appeal decision to uphold a successful opposition to its application for registration as a Community trademark of the above figurative mark. The registration was sought in relation to goods, in Classes 29 (‘jellies, jams, compotes’) and 33 (Lemon liqueur from the Amalfi Coast’) of the Nice Agreement 1957. Limiñana y Bottella, SL filed a notice of opposition in relation to Spanish registration of the word mark, ‘LIMONCHELO’ under Class 33 (‘Wines, spirits and liqueuers’). The Opposition Division initially held that in Spanish territory, there was a likelihood of confusion due to the visual and phonetical similarities between identical goods.
After a series of appeals, the European Court of Justice finalised the proceedings, after Shaker argued that Article 8(1)(b) was infringed and opposition to its trademark should be rejected, due to a purported ‘misuse of powers’ and a ‘breach of duty to state reasons'. Shaker argued that the earlier trademark possessed a weak distinctive character since it described lemon-based liqueurs and merely translated Limoncello into Spanish. Shaker felt it was mistakenly held that the word ‘limoncello’ was the dominant component of the trademark applied for.
The ECJ made a global assessment, considering all relevant factors and the relevant public’s perception of the signs and the goods at issue. It must be noted that the relevant public in this instance was average Spanish consumers as the relevant territory was Spain. Although there were secondary words, ‘della Costiera Amalfitana’, ‘Shaker’ and the lemon-decorated round plate image, in the circumstances, limoncello was held to dominate the likely impression in the eyes of the relevant public. Comparisons were made between the marks:
Visually, there was a certain similarity as ‘limoncello’ and ‘limonchelo’ are visually almost identical and the other elements of the mark are secondary to the dominant word, ‘limoncello’.
Phonetically, they are similar and pronounced almost identically across both languages, particularly because the Spanish public typically pronounces ‘limoncello’ in the Italian way.
Both marks commonly concern the first word of the trade mark applied for.
Conceptually, they are similar as it is not excluded that the words ‘limoncello’ or ‘limonchelo’ may refer to a lemon-based liqueur. The wording ‘della costiera amalfitana’ would be regarded by the relevant public as from ‘a particular coast’, and there is nothing prohibiting the goods covered by the earlier mark from coming from the same coast.
It was ruled that The Board of Appeal’s finding that the goods were not practically identical, visually and phonetically, was erroneous, although there was a certain similarity between the marks. However, the ECJ still concluded that there was a likelihood of confusion between the marks due to the aforementioned similarities.
The takeaway here is the overall impression that the mark gives is crucial, and this case epitomises the difficulties involved at the time in registering marks similar to the Spanish mark, ‘LIMONCHELO’, despite this arguably lacking distinctive character.
THE SCRAN
Chef Fiore took full advantage of the four lemons we picked during the Lemon Tour in order by delivering a gastronomic masterclass. Four courses were provided, each presenting a dish with lemon at the heart of its creation.
1st Course
‘Provola Cheese on Leaves with Lemon Scented Prawns’
Throughout my trip to the Amalfi Coast, it was clear that Italy’s offering of cheese and seafood was truly delightful. The texture of the soft provola alongside the crispy tempura-styled prawns was perfect, and represented a great kick-off to the tasting menu. Chef Fiore also provided us with a side salad of pizza dough with arugula leaves, tomatoes and parmesan, which offered a lovely aside to the flavourful appetiser.
2nd Course
‘A Duet of Ravioli with Ricotta & Lemons and Seabass’
Ricotta ravioli was my favourite dish across my week in Italy, but this creative take on the Amalfi classic stole the show. Fiore, during the Lemon Tour, praised the flavour deriving from his ‘mixed graft citrus tree’, where oranges are combined with lemons. The powerful citrus tones combined well with the ricotta, leaving me wanting more!
3rd Course
- Baked Fish with Lemon Potatoes -
Instantly, the presentation of the fish on Bontà’s inventive plateware caught the eye. The fish was smothered in soft citrusy potatoes, laid atop the prominent lemon leaf, blending seamlessly into the plate’s artistic design. It was a tasty, light course prior to the exciting dessert.
4th Course
- A Trio of Lemon Desserts - Lemon Delight, Lemon Sorbet & Lemon Ice-Cream -
The refreshing threesome of lemon joys ended off an unforgettable meal in style. My personal favourite was the lemon sorbet, as it cleansed the palette so well, and you could really taste the quality of the lemons shining through in this course.
REFRESHMENTS
‘Lemon Spritz’
Wonderfully refreshing on a hot summer’s day. I would highly recommend recreating it if you desire an alternative to the Aperol Spritz.
‘Shot of Limoncello’
An Italian classic, as ubiquitous as pasta or pizza in the Amalfi Coast. During lunch-time and after a hefty four course meal, it certainly left a kick, but knowing it was concocted in-house made it extra special. The chilled shot glass and ice-cold liqueur ensured it went down smoothly.
THE FEE
Overall, it costs €50 per person for the ‘Lemon Tour’, four courses, limoncello making, two cocktails and a shot of limoncello. A very reasonable price for such a memorable experience.
THE REVIEW
This incredible experience has garnered Food & Footy’s first 5* review, as a result of the warmth the staff instantly provided us from minute one to the last. The food matched their efforts and learning about Italian culture whilst tucking into a refreshing drink overlooking the sea made sure I will not be forgetting about Bontà anytime soon! I would highly recommend a visit if you desire a jam-packed schedule of indulgence.
Room for Improvement?
A Food & Footy first, but for the price of €50, improving on the experience would seem overly critical. It felt like we found a gem inside the Amalfi Coast, away from the tourist traps spread across the array of beautiful seafront towns.
THE EYE TEST
THE TASTE TEST
SERVICE
ATMOSPHERE
PLAYER OF THE MATCH
- CHEF FIORE -
FINAL MATCH RATING
LOCATION
Address: Le Bontà del Capo, Via I Maggio, 14, 84010 Conca dei Marini SA, Italy
Website: https://www.lebontadelcapo.it/